Even though Turf Pros Solution has over a dozen artificial turf installers, we totally understand that one of the most ideal approaches to cut expenses on home improvements is to do it without anyone’s help; or currently known as DIY (Do It Yourself). Installation of synthetic grass is not so muddled that a homeowner can’t do it without help, thus here is a point by point outline of the DIY method. These strides are basic to guarantee your lawn, garden, putting green or pooch run looks stunning and won’t have any complications in the future. In the event that you ever have any inquiries concerning the installation procedure, kindly don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at 844-260-4144.
Step 1
Measure your yard with a 100 foot tape measure or a measuring wheel. Additionally, you can use an aerial map application like Google Maps to determine how much artificial turf you will need.
Step 2
Clear the area of all vegetation and debris then add a base of crushed rock or road base. Next, level it with a landscaping rake and then, spray with water and compact the area with a water-filled lawn roller.
Step 3
Unroll and lay the artificial grass out flat, cut off the ends and then line up all the seams/edges. Next, fold back the edges of turf and attach seam tape in between the middle of the two pieces to adhere; then roll back one side of turf onto seam tape and do the same to the remaining pieces. Note: Be sure the seams are taut and precise, the grain of the turf is all facing in the same direction, and the space at the seam is the same as the stitching gauge. After turf is installed, power broom before applying infill. Apply infill onto turf using a drop spreader. Spread infill as evenly as possible with a grading rake or broom until infill settles into the base of the turf.
Step 4
Use a push broom and brush the grass fibers against the grain to make them stand up, as they may be a bit flattened from being rolled up.
Step 5
Use a broadcaster/spreader to add sand between the grass fibers to a depth of approximately ½” to ¾” is recommended. Then, brush again to work the sand down into the thatch and grass backing which will also make the fibers stand up.
Step 6
Stake down the turf along the perimeter with 6-8”in turf nails about every 2-3’ft. If desired, add edging, rock or other border.
Prior to installation lay turf out under the sun for at least 1-2 hours to allow turf to acclimate. This will make the backing less stiff and the turf easier to be power broomed. Always stretch and install turf taut. One yard of base materials will cover 80 square feet at 4 inch depth (1 Yard = 1 Ton). Do not overlap seams. Never drive nails into base too far because this will create a noticeable dip. Always power broom prior to filling. Always run grain of turf in the same direction. Use a 2×4 (straight line installation) or 1×2 (curve line installation) of synthetic or pressure treated wood bender board around the perimeter of turf area to frame and protect the turf from soil and debris. Use only Kiln Dried Sand, crumb rubber or acrylic sand for infill when needed. Infill amount will vary. An 80 Ib. bag of sand will typically cover a 60 sf. of turf.
Melting: Beware of highly reflective windows on the south or west side of your home. In certain conditions, sunlight hitting these windows has created a “magnifying glass effect” that acts much like a laser and will melt your turf. A coating on the outside of the window will prevent this.
Weather: Our turf gets installed in the mountains, where rain and snow drain very well with no flooding issues. Wind is not a worry if the installation has been done properly. In the hot Southwest part of the US, the grass can get quite warm to the touch during the midday direct sun. The grass does not retain heat in the shade or darkness like rock does. The turf can easily take even the hottest direct sunlight without damage providing that there isn’t any strong reflection or sun magnification.
Pets Smell: The best solution for getting rid of pet’s smell is to use a biodegradable odor solution that will break down ammonia. They work as a molecular sieve creating a cation exchange which occurs when two or more positively charged compounds or elements exchange places on a negatively charged host. This exchange process removes charges and essentially removes ammonia in pet waste. We offer a few different varieties as well as offering a complete sanitation system that we can install in your existing irrigation for a push of a button cleaning system.
Note: Never use regular sand for infill. Power broom again so that the blades are standing straight up. Use carpet scissors to trim off the excessive turf blades. Clean the surrounding area with a blower or a broom.